Metal Education
When purchasing gold there are a few things about this precious metal you need to know. Gold is measured in karats. 24 karat gold is 100 percent pure, but not as strong as other karatages that are mixed with alloy metals.18 karat gold, the European metal of choice, is 75 percent pure, while the favorite in the United States, 14 karat gold is only 50 percent pure. No gold rated fewer than 10 karats can be legally sold in the United States.
The price of gold is determined by its karat. To determine the karatage of a piece of jewelry, one must only look on the back of the piece. All gold jewelry sold in the US is marked with a K and a number representing the purity of the gold in the piece. The US also requires that a manufacturer’s trademark be present on all jewelry to guarantee its purity.
I addition to the karat of the gold, you must consider the type of gold as well. Gold Overlay or Gold filled is gold of at least 10 karats that has been bounded by heat and pressure to another metal. Gold plate must also be 10 karats or higher, but must only be plated to another metal. Gold leaf is plating that is pounded and applied by hand.
Have you ever noticed that different pieces of gold can appear to be different colors? That is because they are. Different colors of gold are created when gold is alloyed with different metals. Yellow gold is alloyed with silver and copper. White gold is created by using large percentages of silver or other white metals. Rose gold gets its reddish tone from the copper it is alloyed with.
So what will the gold you choose cost? Gold is priced not only by its purity, but its gram weight and the amount of craftsmanship in the design of the piece. Higher karat or gram weight obviously raises the price of a piece of gold jewelry, but craftsmanship can also be a significant factor. The more texture, hand finishing, or intricacy in involved in creating a piece the more expensive it becomes.
Caring for gold is a relatively simple process. As with most jewelry, do not wear gold pieces when doing rough work or using harsh chemicals. Keep your gold jewelry in a fabric lined box away from other pieces of jewelry and check the setting frequently for loose stones, broken prongs or misalignments.
Often seen as less formal, silver jewelry, is popular among young people who prefer its adaptability to new and different styles of jewelry. Silver is a versatile metal that can be finished in numerous ways including highly polished, matte or brushed, satin, sandblasted, oxidized, or antiqued. Silver is also a soft metal that, like gold, is alloyed with other metals to provide strength. The most common combination of metals found in silver jewelry is silver and copper.
Silver is not marked with a karatage, because items marked as silver or sterling silver must be 92.5% pure by US law. Fine silver or 999/100 pure silver is much to soft for jewelry. In addition to sterling silver, jewelry can be made from other alloys. Silver plating is a process by which pure silver is electroplated to a base metal. Vermeil is sterling silver electroplated with gold. It must be plated with at least 100 millionths of an inch of karat gold. German silver or nickel silver is an alloy made of copper, zinc, and nickel. Coin silver, rarely seen in this century, is 90% pure silver with a 10% metal alloy.
Silver in any form is a popular choice for both men and women. While women often have an emotional attachment or fond memory associated with a piece of silver jewelry, men see silver jewelry as a gift of distinction. Cuff links, tie clips, and men’s rings are often best in silver.
Caring for silver is a different process than the care given to gold or platinum jewelry. Silver jewelry should be stored in a cool, dry place that is airtight to avoid oxidation. Do not expose silver jewelry to excessive light, artificial or natural sunlight, or directly on wood. Wood contains acids that can cause chemical reactions in silver. A tarnish proof cloth in a separate part of the jewelry box is best for silver jewelry and never put rubber bands or plastic on your silver’s surfaces.
Platinum is the strongest precious metal used in jewelry. In recent years, it has gained tremendous popularity for both its strength and white luster. Platinum’s luster brings out the brilliance of diamonds better than gold and is often viewed as a more compatible metal with fair skin tones.
The increase in the popularity of platinum is ironic considering it is one of the rarest metals on earth. It is also a difficult metal to extract making it more expensive than gold and silver. Platinum jewelry actually consists of several heavy metals alloyed together. Platinum, palladium, rhodium, iridium, and osmium are very similar in both weight and chemical composition. They are therefore, alloyed together to create platinum for jewelry.
Like gold, jewelry made from platinum must be cared for to last a lifetime. Do not wear jewelry made from platinum when using harsh chemicals or doing rough work. Store platinum jewelry in a fabric lined box away from other jewelry. As with all gemstone jewelry, check periodically for loose stones, broken prongs or misalignments and seek a professional jeweler for repair.